I have found myself searching the internet for new, independent pattern makers to give my wardrobe and sewing skills a bit of a pick-me-up. Sew…I came across “Dressy Talk“. I didn’t find out much about the company since their link to about was not in service when I checked it. I assume it’s a European company since its monetary figures are in Euros, but that is just an assumption. They have some really cute patterns. I purchased this one as a PDF download and went to work. Dressy Talk patterns are downloadable PDF you can print at home. I was attracted to the #2110 Blouse which they describe as “Kimono sleeve blouse with a central front pleat and drawstring waistband”. It’s cute as can be and perfect for hot weather. I used a Cotton+Steel rayon challis. It’s so soft, cool to the touch, great drape and movement, and lightweight.
First thing I noticed was their sizing chart. OOOOPS! What??? Are you serious???? Hum… OK…. Now, I’m not a young woman anymore and certainly do not have a Barbie Doll hourglass figure either. Well, to be honest, I never did no mater what age I was at. Neither here or there, but I loved this style so much that I was willing to figure out someway to make it work.
Their sizing is not anything what I was accustom to. Their range is size 42-60 and they suggest it to experienced beginners. Their sizing chart appeared to favor extremely busty women with teeny tiny waists. I cut a size 52 which suggested I had a bust of 104cm (which not even close) and a waist of 82cm (also not even close) and a hip of 112cm (nope, not me). Yes you guessed it, I’m not a Barbie Doll figure. I tried to adjust the waist LARGER which in this pattern due to the design, I only got an extra inch out of it. I had major concerns that the bust was going to be way too big, and I was right. I should have made an adjustment to the neckline so it didn’t hang as bad as it does on my “B” chest. Next time.
Sew Here We GO! I cut out all the pieces and went to work. All the markings for the bust line and front pleat were made. The front pleat is a 4cm pleat at the neckline, so I pinned my fabric together while it was still folded from cutting on the fold, made my 4cm marks from the center and also 4cm down as my sewing line. Then I sewed breast darts not as long as on the pattern because I don’t have big breastesssess. I was hoping for more drape than taper. HAHAHAHAHA
Next was the pressing of the pleat and darts. Then I went ahead and did a stay stitch around the neck line. By the way, the neckline only calls for a scant 1/4 seam when you put your neck binding on. All the other seams are 1cm. The Cotton+Steel rayon is super soft and has movement so I use some fusible bias tape on the shoulder seams to give it some stability. Love that stuff!. On to the shoulder seams. I veered away from the instructions here a bit and sewed both left and right shoulders before I put my bias tape on the neckline. OH… their instructions are really good and they provide great visuals on how to construct the garment, so you probably won’t have any difficulty figuring out how to sew this top.
Before you sew the side seams, put the arm sleeve “cuffs” on. Just fold the cuffs in half with right sides out and sew them in place. No easing, no fuss.
Finish your seams with an overlock or zigzag! Yes that’s my mantra! Once, you have finished your armhole cuff seams, finish it, turn and press towards your garment and give a nice topstitch to hold that seam in place and makes the cuff lay nice and neat on your arm.
Now sew your side seams ensuring you catch a bit of the cuff to hide the raw edges. Give it a good press and then make your waistband… or hem your top… or whatever you want to do. I did a quick rolled hem on my top. Turned out pretty good. Then I grabbed my pattern pieces again to gage where I was supposed to sew the waistband. I chalked a line around the top and sewed my waistband on, leaving about 4cm open at the front to insert my tie.
Instead of making a tie, I bought some cording and used that. WAAA LAAA! Cute little top. Fun to make, fun to wear.