Jude Tutorial

“Hey Jude! Don’t be afraid. You were made to go out and get her.” Quoted from the infamous Beatles. I love that song and how it inspires to step outside the box and don’t be afraid of reaching for something new that you love. So I did. I went in search of some indie patterns that were not the “same ole – same ole”. I came across this pattern from Ready to Sew named Jude. I assume the designer, Raphaëlle Bonamy, is from France, but that’s just an assumption. I will say I love the designer’s style and strong sense of caring for the planet and sustainability. Check them out if you will.

Sew… here we go! I downloaded the pattern. There was an option for a blouse and one for a dress. Another option was short sleeve or 3/4 sleeves. Super great directions were provided too for the most part. The seam allowance for this pattern is 1cm. I chose to cut a size 42 blouse with the 3/4 sleeve. I purchased some double gauze that is so soft and comfy in the summer time. Very light and breezy fabric. I thought it would look great with the gathered sleeve details too. I will say, there are a couple places in the directions that lacked a bit of detail for beginners. Hopefully this tutorial will help you through those tight spots.

First things first… Read the directions. Yes, read them in their entirety. That way you have your road map set. Cut out your pieces and mark your notches… and I suggest you mark your centers of the front piece and centers of the facings and the underarm points where the seams match, and the center of the sleeve where your gather stitches are done. It will just make your life easier. Also, if you have a fabric that is hard to match, you could fudge a bit and place your back piece on the fold too, just remember your seam allowance needs to be figured into the equation of placement up by the neckline. Fuse the interfacing in place on your neck facings. Now the directions suggest you surge all your edges prior to you staring in on your sewing. It does make it easier to go ahead and surge or “finish” the raw edges now. It will take a little extra time and thread, but why not go ahead and do it. There are a lot of gathers, and finishing those edges after you sew them are a pain in the you know what. The first seam is the back seam. Go ahead and sew it with a 1cm seam allowance.

Finish your edges

Next make two rows of gather stitches on your curved edges of the sleeve panels between your notches. Now let’s start with the back sleeve panels and ease them into the back arm areas, gathering the material until it fits the area of the sleeve. Notice that on one end of the sleeve is a “L” shaped notch. This is where you line it up at the side seam of the back panel.

Gather sleeve and ease it into the back panel.
“L” cut of sleeve meets at side seam

Do the same thing to the front sleeves and front bodice panel. YAY. Looking good! Once you have put all your sleeves in place, sew your shoulder seams and the side seams. Finish those seams if you haven’t already done that.

Get your neck facings now and sew them together at the shoulder seam. Finish the edges. Pin it to the neck edge of your bodice and sew in place with a 1cm seam allowance. Trim your seams and clip your curves. Understitch your facing to the seam allowance to keep it from rolling over the top in front .

Understitch the neck facing

Turn the facing and press in place. Tack it down at the seam lines.

Now to finish off the sleeves. Sew the seam of each sleeve extension piece. I made a command decision to put the sleeve cuff on now prior to attaching the extension to bodice just because it gives me more wiggle room to move. Take the cuff pieces, sew each of them at their short ends to make a complete circle, fold them in half and press. Now take the extension, sew a double row of gather stitches so you can ease them into the cuffs.

Attach the cuff to the extension, gather until it fits and sew in place. Finish your seams.

Attach the sleeves to the bodice. They should fit without any ease problem at all. Finish your hem and you’re done! Now, my favorite thing EVER to help me with hems or holding anything in place without pins is WONDER TAPE! Amazing stuff. I used it to help me hem this garment and it came out beautifully. SEW…. here’s my finished top! HEY JUDE! DA DA DA DA DADDIDADA. HEY JUDE!

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