Style Arc’s Stacie is my all time favorite go-to jeans jacket for a feminine figure. I love the lines on this jacket as they are curved in at the waist so it’s not so boxy. DOWNSIDE, this jacket is not drafted with pockets, but don’t let that deter you. I will show you here how to draft your own welt pockets. The breast pocket can also be an easy addition since the pattern drafted a “FAUX” pocket flap. Sometimes I wonder why someone would do that…???? Well, anyway, this is such a great fitting jacket that I was willing to ignore the downside and turn it into a teaching moment. Notice also there are no traditional cuffs. This pattern has extra long sleeves so you can roll them up in a fashionable look.
SEW… Here We GO!
Do yourself a BIG favor and put a nice strong JEANS needle into your sewing machine. I used a size 16. TIPS: when you try to sew through several layers of denim, some sewing machines just can’t do it by themselves. They need some encouragement. So, if you get to a tight spot, manually turn your wheel to get through a couple of stitches. Also another big tip is before you sew, take a hammer (yes, a hammer) and bang that extra fold down before you try to stitch.
Since it’s time to reuse/repurpose/recycle, this is the perfect jacket to take those old worn jeans and make them into a super stylish jeans jacket. Cut your pattern pieces out as best you can on the old jeans. Don’t worry about having different shades of denim and even I have used different weights of denim and it all works out. TIP: Cut the sleeves with the bottom pants hem as your hem for the sleeve. Naturally the pattern piece isn’t going to fit 100% but that’s OK. It will all work out since you roll the sleeves up anyway. Just do the best you can.
I chose to place my center back along a seam of the old jeans too! Love this look.
Let’s sew.. First sew your collar pieces together. I turned 1/4″ over on one piece to make it easier for me to put the collar onto the neckline better.
Time to make the faux breast pocket. I used a couple back pocket pieces from some “fancy” jeans as my fabric. I tried to center the design as best I could, then I did a double row of top stitching.
Sew your faux breast pocket to the front yoke. Go ahead and sew the button hole in the pocket before you attach it to the yoke. Sew your front bodice together matching those very important dots and notches.
To finish my seams I decided to just trim the edges of the seam allowance closest to the center so when I pressed it over to top stitch it laid nice and flat. Before I top stitch, I did an overcast stitch over the other seam allowance to keep it from fraying.
We will be finishing seams and top stitching along the way, so go ahead and top stitch your front bodice before you attach the yoke.
Sew the front bodice to the yoke. Finish that seam and topstitch.
Sew the back pieces together the same way. Once you do a seam, finish it with top stitching before you progress to the next one.
I drafted my own welt pocket pattern pieces. Just take some paper and draw two parallel lines, 5″ long by 3/4″ wide where you want the pocket opening to be on your jacket. Be aware of where the seams are so you don’t cut through those.
Cut out two pocket pieces out of denim and two pocket pieces out of whatever lining you like. Mark your pattern pieces with the lines and dots you drafted. Make sure you mark the lines on the front of your bodice too. All the lines and dots should match.
BASTE the lining onto the front bodice only at the lines you have drawn.
Cut two pieces of denim 3″ x 7″ for the welt pocket facing. Press one side over 1″. Mark dots to line up with your welt pocket dots.
On the front of your bodice, you should have already marked your lines and dots on the denim. Place one of the welt facings on the front matching up your dots with the line closest to the center of the jacket front. Sew it down 1/2″ from the folded edge so you catch two layers of the facing. You will be sewing through the facing, bodice and lining, so ensure everything is in place and not bunched up. I’ve put a bunch of pic below so you get the idea.
Now pin the facing out of the way so we can sew the pocket on the other line.
Take the denim pocket piece and ensure you have the correct one by placing it right side up on top of the bodice. This way you know it’s the right piece for the side you’re working with. Now flip it over with RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, pin the pocket to the bodice matching the line closes to the side seam. Sew in place down the marked line from dot to dot on only the one line. Look at the photos below to help you figure it out.
Once you have sewn your pocket in place, pin it over to get it out of the way. You should be able to see the center of the pocket opening. You will cut the center of the pocket opening through the denim and lining up to about 3/4″ from the top and bottom of the welt, then you will cut into the corners to the stitching being very careful not to cut through the stitching. (see red dot diagram below)
Turn the pocket and facing to the inside and you will notice that the “V” tab will be laying on top of the welt facing. Sew in down as seen below in the pic. You will need to sew all 4 of the V’s.
Now move the denim pocket out of the way and top stitch the welt facing edge. Be careful not to catch the denim pocket bag.
Now reposition the denim pocket aligning all the layers of fabric as close as possible so they lay nice and neat. Now not all my layers fell back into place exactly as expected, but not worries. I just trimmed the edges to match the bodice as best as possible. (see below pics) Tops stitch the other side of your pocket welt and the ends.
On the back side of your bodice, you will see your denim pocket bag and lining. We are going to press about 1/4″ over on the top edge of the bag and lining so we can finish the pocket top nicely. I used a decorative stitch to sew the bag and lining together. DO NOT SEW THE POCKET BAG AND LINING TO THE BODICE!!! Only sew the pocket bag and lining to each other.
To ease up on all the layers of the front facing, we will be trimming some of the pocket bag away from the center front. Be careful just to trim so when do sew the front button hole facing in place that you catch the pocket bag. (See below)
Press a 1/4″ over along the long edge of the front facing. Along the outer edge of the bodice, sew down the pocket to the bodice about 1/4″ from edge just to hold it in place. Take the front facing and sew it to the front edge of the bodice using a 1/4″ seam allowance, starting at the dot on the neck edge and pivot to sew down the edge to the hemline.
Clip to the stitching at the dot.
Turn the facing and top stitch it down catching that pocket bag.
We’ve come a long ways, so now we’re on the back stretch. Sew the back to the front at the shoulders. Sew the collar into place matching the notches. I like to sew the collar to the right side of the jacket first and then topstitch the pressed edge down on the inside of the jacket.
Sew the sleeves into place matching the notches and edges. Top stitch around the armscye.
With right sides together sew up the side seams and down the sleeve seams. Do your best to finish those seams and topstitch. Attach the bottom waistband and topstitch that. Sew your button holes and attach your buttons. Now another great piece that this pattern does not have are the button tabs that go on a waistband of a jeans jacket, but you can make your own. Sew the button hole into the tab before you sew the tab onto the waistband. Attach the at the side seam line.
Waaaaa Laaaaa! What a great jacket. There are so many things you can do to personalize, stylize and customize your jacket with patches, embellishments, different fabrics, linings, etc. Make it yours.