It’s been a long time coming, but the Sacha Shirt from Style Arc has finally made it to the blog. YAY! This collared button-down has tons of interest with its three quarter length slit sleeves. Its long length hemline is perfect to be paired with a cute pair of skinny jeans or leggings. Like most of Style Arc’s patterns, Sacha is very comfortable to wear and most likely will never go out of style.
SEW…Here We GO!
Sacha is designed for a woven fabric, but you be the judge on what you want to use. I used a cotton shirting and picked a size 12. Start by doing all your prep work to include (1) washing/drying your fabric if you need to, (2) change out your sewing machine needle so you’re using the correct size for your fabric, (3) clean out the bobbin area of your sewing machine, and (4) test drive your stitching on a scrap piece of fabric to ensure your tension is good.
Cut your fabric pieces out to include your interfacing pieces for the collar, sleeve cuffs and button front facings. Fuse the interfacing to those pieces that need it. Mark all your dots and notches clearly.
First we will sew the front button facing by “double turning” or folding over the facing twice (use the pattern markings) to create the front button area. Top stitch it down close to the folded edge.
Sew the breast darts. Start at the edge and sew inward to the point of the dart. Do not back stitch, just pull some extra thread so you can hand tie the end. This technique helps avoid those ugly dimpled points of a dart. Press dart downward.
Let’s make up the collar. The collar is in two pieces, a collar stand and the main collar. With right sides together, sew the main collar pieces together around the outer edges using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Trim corners. Fold right side out and give it a good press ensuring you get those points nice and pointy. Use a point turner if you have one, but be careful not to poke through your collar end if you use something else. Top stitch the main collar.
On on piece of the collar stand, fold over 1/4″ on the straight edge and give it a good press. Sandwich the main collar in-between the collar stand pieces as shown below. Using a 1/4″ seam allowance sew it in place. Turn right side out and give it a good press.
Set the collar to the side for now and let’s work on the main body of the shirt. Remember this shirt has “side vents”. Using a 1cm seam allowance, sew the shoulder seams. Sew the side seams together starting at the armscye down to the DOT. Re-enforce the end of that seam to give it extra strength so it doesn’t rip. Cut a notch into the seam allowance so you can fold the vent edges separately. Finish the seam with an overcast stitch or any other way you want to finish it. Just getter dun! Finish your hemline while you’re at it. I used a double fold small hem to match the side vents.
Now it’s time to attach the collar to the main body of the shirt. I like to attach the collar with right sides together first. Then, when you flip it over you top stitch the folded edge of the collar down to the inside of the shirt. This gives me more control over the top stitching look which I prefer. I can easily follow the stitching line to ensure accuracy. See below:
Sew the seams of your sleeves. Take your cuff pieces and fold in half with right sides together. Take the cuff and press the non-faced side over 1/4″. Sew the split edges of each side using a 1/4″ seam. With right sides together, sew the cuff to the sleeve ensuring the slit edges are in the center of the sleeve and not on the seam side. Stitch in place and give it a good extra stitches for strength. Turn the pressed edge and sew in place hiding the raw edges of the cuff attachment.
All that’s left to do is button holes and buttons. YAY! You’re done. WHAAAA LAAAH! A great shirt to have in the wardrobe!