Now view B comes with a somewhat scalloped neckline without a button up front. I also chose to go with the longer waist ties that start in the front darts and tie in the back. This is such a pretty top (and dress). The designer suggests using a light to medium weight woven fabric with “a nice drape”. I went with a beautiful rayon batiste from Mood Fabrics; it’s a silky thin rayon with tons of drape and movement.
Sew…Here We GO!
Ensure your sewing machine is ready to go by putting a nice new needle in it and make sure it’s clean. I used a size 8 universal needle for this project. Most of the seams have a 1cm seam allowance for this make, so unless otherwise stated, use 1cm. Be precise in the cutting and markings of all notches and dots. I added an extra DOT in the center of the back bodice and the centers of the flounce to assist in matching when those are attached. Fore warning.. follow these steps precisely in order or you may find you missed a spot that you shouldn’t have.
Step ONE: sew the front seam of the bodice. Press seam open.
Now let’s FUSE the interfacing pieces together. You’ll notice there are TWO interfacing pieces for the front and the back. That is because you’re going to fuse both the facings and the main bodice. So get to it.
Sew the facing pieces together. Press the seams open, then sew a “folding line stitch” around the outside edges 1/4″ from edge. This seriously helps you press the 1/4 edge over nice and neat. Cut into your corners so you can turn it over. Now after I pressed my edges over, I also sewed in down, just to keep it from unravelling due to the fabric I had. There is a step in the near future which you will actually sew this facing to the bodice, so you don’t need to do what I did… unless you want to.
There are two sets of darts that run from the waist up: two in the front and two in the back. Depending on what you choose for ties will determine what dart you insert them into…so decide now. Do you want a little short tie in the back or do you want your ties to run from the front to the back. I went with the longer ties. Sew them by folding them in half with right sides together using a 1/4″ seam allowance and sew one end. Use some type of device to pull it to the right sided. I love my little tool (see below) that has a little hook that can grab the end and you just pull it through.
Now we are going to place the raw edge of the tie inside the dart 1/2 inch from the waist edge on the RIGHT SIDE OF FABRIC. Pin in place (or baste) See Below: Sew the darts and press to the sides.
Sew the shoulder seams and finish them with an overlock stitch.
Place the neck facing on the bodice with right sides together matching notches, dots and outline of the cut. Sew in place using a 1cm seam allowance. Sew some extra stitches in the corners for strength. Trim your corners and cut notches into the corners and around the curves. Understitch the seam allowances to the facing. Turn to right side out and press ensuring you get those scallop points out nice and pointy.
This is where we topstitch the facing to the bodice. The stitching will show so be mindful of how it looks. I chose to do a double row of stitching; once on the edge of the facing and one about 1/4″ in from the edge.
Time to work on the sleeves. Take your sleeves and press over 1/4 inch on the non-notched long side to assist you later in finishing it. Now pin your sleeve to the bodice matching the notches and ends. Sew it on using a 1cm seam allowance. Press the seam allowance towards the sleeve.
Now let’s sew the side seams. Match the back and front bodice pieces along the side seam matching seams, notches and ends. Sew in place starting at the sleeve cuff, and around down to the bodice hemline using a 1cm seam allowance.
Turn your sleeve cuff to the inside and sew in place being mindful that your stitches will be showing like a topstitch. I chose to stitch in the ditch and then do a second row of stitching 1/4″ in on the sleeve. I admit I used a ton of pins to ensure it was properly in placed before I started stitching. Make a small clip under the armscye so you can finish your seam on the sides. I used an overlock stitch there.
You are almost to the finish line. Let’s work on the flounce. Sew the side seams of the flounce and finish those seams. I went ahead and hemmed it at this point so I would have less bulk to mess with while sewing. My hem was a simple double fold narrow hem.
Sew two rows of long basting / gathering stitches along the seam edge. I did two separate sets of gathering stitches; one for the front and one for the back. Remember earlier I added those extra dots in the center to help align the flounce? Well this is where that comes in. Pin the flounce to the bodice a the seams and centers then pull those gathers in nice and even. Sew it in place and finish that seam with an overcast or zigzag stitch. And. WHAAAA LAAAH!!! We are DONE! What a cute little top!