I was looking for a traditional button-down shirt to sew using linen or cotton. Something that would go great with jeans or even layered. I found this on-line linen store, Fabrics-Store.com, that have great prices on beautiful linen and they also have a grand selection of patterns that are perfectly paired for linen fabrics. I saw this perfect pattern for my vision, the Noa, and was ready to purchase it….however… it was FREE!!!
I couldn’t pass it up. I had to make it. So I ordered about 12 yards of various linen to give it a go at different looks, but I had some cotton here at the house to use as a muslin for sizing first. I cut out a size 8/10 without any alterations. Marked all the notches and dots and began.
SEW … Here We GO!
First things first… Change your sewing machine needle out to a sharp one made for woven fabric. Fuse interfacing to the collar, half cuffs, and the button hole/button facings. All seams are 3/8″ seam allowance unless otherwise stated. There are two front pieces, one left and one right side. The left side has a wider center front and is self faced. You will fold this side over twice 1″ intervals, press, and top stitch in place. The right side has a facing we will sew on to be a bit more decorative since this is the side that will show when your shirt is buttoned. Take the facing and press one edge 1/4″ over. Take the edge that you did not press and with the right side of the facing placed against the wrong side of the blouse, pin in place and sew using 3/8″ seam. Press facing over to the right side of the blouse, pin and top stitch in place.
Fold the back pleat matching notches, press and baste in place. Sandwich the back in-between the two yoke pieces ensuring that right sides of the yoke are facing inward. Sew in place. Press to right side and top stitch in place.
Sew the two front pieces to the yoke by sewing the inner yoke wrong side to the wrong side of the front piece. Press 1/4″ of outside yoke edge over and then top stitch it in place as shown below:
Make up the collar by placing right sides together the two collar pieces and sew along the three outside edges. Turn right side out and press. Use a point turner to get those points out nice and pointy.
Press the long edge of one of the collar stand pieced over 1/4″. Sandwich the collar between the collar stand pieces. Pin and stitch in place.
Turn right side out, press and top stitch.
With wrong sides together, pin collar stand to neckline matching notches. Sew in place. Turn to right side and grade seam then press. Top stitch in place on the right side of neckline.
Finish top stitching around the collar stand.
Take the sleeves and cut the placket following guide lines. Place right sides together and sew bias placket in place using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Press over and top stitch. See below: Fold and press pleats at bottom of sleeve and baste in place.
Inset sleeves matching notches and edges. Use a slight bit of gathering if needed. Finish seam with an overlock stitch and press. Tops stitch seam allowance towards yoke.
Sew sides and sleeve seam in all one seam. Finish seams and press.
Press unfused half of cuff edge over 1/4″. Fold cuff in half with wrong sides together and sew sides using 3/8″ seam. Turn right side out and press ensuring points are pointy. Pin raw edge of cuff to wrong side of sleeve, ease in place and sew matching notches and edges.
Turn cuff to right side and top stitch in place.
Finish hem using a double rolled 1/4″ hem.
Sew the button holes and attach buttons and WAAAAH LAAAAAH! A cute traditional button-down collared shirt!