I’m in the mood for love! This wonderful independent pattern company, LOVE NOTIONS, designed one of my favorite top patterns for woven fabrics named RHAPSODY, and I wanted to share this sew-along with you because that’s what love is all about… sharing and caring.
What an amazing pattern this is with so many options for sleeves and body lengths. You can mix and match to your hearts desire. How can you not love it! After pondering my options with my linen fabric, I landed with the tie neckline and 3/4 flare sleeves. Before we get going, ensure your sewing machine is clean and has a needle perfect for your woven fabric of choice. Do a test stitch line to ensure your tension is correct too! I cut out all my pieces and marked all my notches and I am ready to get my sew on! I cut a medium and graded it out to a large down to the hemline since I’m a bit wide in the waist compared to what I was when I was 20 years old. ALSO…. cut a couple strips of fabric on the bias to make bias tape for your neck line and strings. I cut out one long bias strip 1 1/4 ” wide by about 50″ long. If you choose you can cut your bias wider than that but I like the thinner look. Press your bias tape so it looks like the below pic: You don’t need any special tool to make bias tape. It does help to use spray starch though.
NOTE: Seam allowances for the side seams and sleeve seams are 1/2″ so you can make FRENCH SEAMS and hide all those raw edges nice and neat. All the rest are 3/8″ seams along the yoke and armscyes when you set the sleeves in place.
Sew… Here we GO!!!
First step it to baste the back pleat in the center. Match the notches, press it down and baste. Now sandwich the back bodice in between the yoke pieces ensuring your right side back bodice is touching the right side of the main yoke piece. The right side of the yoke facing should be touching the wrong side of the bodice. Sew in place using 3/8″ seam allowance.
I pressed the yoke up and topstitched it in place.
Grab your front bodice piece and sew two rows of gathering stitches along the shoulders. Now we are going to attach the front bodice to the yoke at the shoulder seams by doing the “burrito” method. It’s a bit of origami magic. First, with right sides together, align the back and front together letting the wrong side yoke facing hanging down. Gather the front shoulders to fit the yoke and pin in place. Now roll the lower body of the top up like a burrito and bring the back yoke facing up to match the shoulders so the body of the blouse is rolled up inside the yoke. Sew the shoulder seams and then turn blouse right side out. Give it a good press and top stitch.
FRENCH SEAM TIME: Now for those of you who have not sewn a French seam, now is the time to learn. French seams are such a great way to keep your garment looking great inside and out. It hides those unsightly raw edges and keeps your fabric from fraying away. So… with WRONG sides together, sew the side seams using a scant 1/4″ seam allowance. Press and turn wrong side out and stitch 3/8″ seam allowance again. This process hides the raw edges. Press and topstitch your seam. Do the same type of French seam for sewing the 3/4 sleeve and flare together.
Sew a narrow hem on both the sleeves and the bottom bodice hemline. It really helps to sew a line of stitching 1/4″ away from raw edge before you fold it up and press it.
All that’s left to do is the neckline. Sew the bias tape you made to V portion of the neckline first. I like to sew bias tape to the wrong side of the garment first and fold it over to the right side and topstitch it in place. I find it looks better in my humble opinion. Once you get the V neck down, sew the bias tape to the rest of the neckline ensuring you have long enough ties to your liking on both ends of the neckline.
WHHHHAAAAAAAA. LLLAAAAAAAHHHHHHH!!! What a great top. Love this pattern. It has so many possibilities for personalization and design.