Butterick 6254 Coat Tutorial

Cooler weather is on its way towards my neck of the woods, so I figured why not prepare ahead of time. I had been looking at some gorgeous outfits made with Ankara African Dutch Wax fabrics that just blew me away. Now being fair skinned and uber blond, I wondered how such rich colorways would look on me. But what the heck… I’m making a coat with it anyway!!!

I found this gorgeous pattern that is originally designed for knit fabrics, but I do like to think outside the box. Why not do a couple of size adjustments and go for broke. This Butterick is also designed as unlined. Ankara Dutch wax fabric is similar to a cotton quilting weight so…. I decided to quilt the Ankara to a slick polyester lining fabric to give it more heft and body so mine is “sorta lined???”

Sew…Here We GO!!!

All seam allowances are 5/8″ unless otherwise stated. Since I would usually make a medium in this pattern, I went up one size to accommodate a woven fabric with no stretch. I cut my pieces with two different Ankara designs that complimented each other and cut out another set of pieces in the black lining too. I envisioned that I would roll up my sleeves to show a complimentary cuff fabric against the sleeve so I had to ensure that the inside sleeve lining had a piece of Ankara that was at the cuff end. (see below). I sewed the complimentary Ankara to the end of the sleeve lining.

Now that all the pieces are cut out and I fused interfacing to the collar and front facing, it’s time to sew. I constructed the shoulder darts in both the sleeve and linings before I sandwiched them together.

I had to take into account the front pieces had a front facing so I didn’t want to cut more front lining than needed.

When I quilted the lining to the main fabric I followed the design in the fabric so it would blend with the design rather than detract from it.

Now that all the pieces are ready to be assembled, let’s make a go of it. First sew the sleeve pieces together at the back seam. Finish your seam nice and neat and give it a good press.

Cut short notches into the curve of the back edge so you can ease the back piece in nice and neat. Finish your seams. I added a bit of topstitching here too around the sleeves. Sew the two front pieces to the other side of the sleeves the same way you did the back.

Time to make up the collar. On the collar piece that you fused with interfacing, cut the notches up to the 5/8″ re-enforced stitching. Fold over and press that notched piece towards the wrong side and trim that notched 5/8″ down to about 3/8″ as seen below: Now sandwich your two collar pieces with right sides together and sew them on the un-notched edges. Trim corners and turn right side out. Poke those collar points out nice and neat and give it a press. With right sides together, sew the collar to the main garment matching center seam and dots. Do not sew the collar piece that’s pressed under. Leave that open.

I decided to wrap the edge of the front facing since from time to time it may show. I made some bias tape and went to work. After it was attached, I pressed the top edge of the facing over 5/8″ and gave it a good press like the directions said, but I found out down the road that didn’t quite work out as planned. Instead, I just finished that edge nice and neat with an overlock stitch. You’ll see why coming up soon.

Attach the facing to the front piece sandwiching the collar in-between the facing and front. Cut little notches into the curve of the neckline to help it fit. I noticed here that the facing didn’t quite fit to the collar opening to cover all the raw edges with the 5/8″ press, so I left it unpressed and finished the edge as neatly as I could. Thinking back I should have just wrapped that edge too with bias tape. I use a slip stitch to attach the facing to the shoulder near the darts. I also used a “close to the edge” stitch line to tack down the center collar with my logo tag also placed in the middle.

Let’s make some pockets. I chose to do inseam pockets. I cut out my pocket pieces and placed them lining up notches and sewed them in place along the seamline of both back and front pieced. After that I aligned the front and back pieces with right sides together and sewed starting at the hemline, up the seams ensuring and went around the pockets and all the way down the sleeves. Finish your seams.

To finish off the ends of the sleeves I wrapped them with bias tape.

We are almost to the finish line, so let’s go ahead and bind the hem and finish that. Then we can do the button holes and buttons.

And WHHHHHAAAAA. LAAAAAAHHHHH!! What a unique cool coat for cooler weather. I love the Ankara fabrics… YES I DO!

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