Inspiration is everywhere. Also, they say copying is the best form of flattery. I was so inspired by “Carmen829” on PR (Pattern Review) of her make of Simplicity 8366 that I not only had to make the pattern, but I made the pattern out of white linen like she did.
This top is SO EASY to make. A special bonus to any garment that is easy is that is looks great once you’re done. Simplicity 8366 fits the bill. Even though this pattern is easy, I have added a few tips and tricks along the way. I made a size medium. The first muslin I made of this I noticed the armscye was a bit big and gaped at the bust line like it needed dart. I made a couple of adjustments to the size of the armscye to make them a bit smaller, but I think I went a bit overboard. Next time I’ll not do such a drastic change, but I will show you here what I did so maybe your make will be better. Oh…. by the way…. all seams are 5/8″ seam allowance unless otherwise stated.
Sew…Here we GO!!!
So I made the armscye a bit smaller by about 1/2″ up and 1/2″ in the side seam. I also cut a bit off the shoulder seam area. Like I said…I made it a bit too small.
Cut out the pattern pieces and fuse the interfacing to the collar and front facings. I used a feather weight fusible Pellon for my linen. I used a Microtex size 10 needle with a polyester all purpose thread. Mark all your notches and let’s get sewing.
Stay stitch your neckline 1/2″ from edge. This stitching will remain in your garment and will not show.
Decide what type of seams you want for your shirt, such as flat felled, french or just a simple seam that is finished. With right sides together, sew the shoulder seams and the side seams from the dot to the armscye.
Re-enforce your stitching at the dot on your side seam. Make a 1/2″ clip into the seam allowance at the dot so you can easily form your hem line slit.
Sew the collar and front facing together. Finish the inside edge with some type of overlock or zigzag stitch to make it nice and neat. TIP ALERT: If you sew a 1/4″ stitch line from the edge of this piece, it makes it soooo much easier to turn and press a beautiful even line and it makes sewing a pleasure. PS: use this tip here and also on the hem line.
With right sides together, pin the facing to the bodice matching notches. Sew in place. Trim/grade seam. Cut little notches around the curves to make it easier to turn. Trim the corners.
Understitch the facing to the seam allowance.
Turn and press the facing. Use some type of point turner tool to get your corners out nice and neat.
TIP ALERT: I like to use Stitch Witchery to hold my facing in place. It’s a fusible adhesive that once you iron it in between two pieces of fabric it is a permanent bond….or supposed to be permanent. It’s washable and dry cleanable. Anyway, I used it on this garment to bond the facing to the bodice.
Let’s keep rolling along and sew the arm facings. TIP ALERT: I do not sew the arm hole facings together as instructed. Instead, I folded the facings long ways with wrong sides together, then started to sew the facing to the garment leaving about 2″ on each side of the side seam open so I could mark exactly how long my facing would need to be to fit. Then I sewed the ends of the facing together and finished attaching it to the armscye. This way I know the facing will fit properly. There are so many different ways to do facings. You can even use bias tape instead of the facing if you choose.
Anywhooo, use a 1/4″ seam allowance to attach the facing to the armscye. Turn and press the facing to the inside and top stitch it down.
Finish your garment by doing a narrow rolled hem. (remember the 1/4″ stitch line tip?). Sew the button holes and pick out some cool buttons to show off the top. WHAAAAAA LAAAAAH! Such a cute summer top!! (thank you Carmen!)