Since cooler weather is just around the corner, I’ve been trying out some long sleeve shirt patterns. This one I was “drawn” to because I envisioned a “draw string” across the V neck like shoe laces. Also, I just love the tucks that are made on each side of the front on view D.
Sew…. Here we GO!!!
Make sure your sewing machine is clean and properly equipped with a new needle appropriate for your fabric choice. I’m sewing with a linen and therefore have a microtex size 12 needle ready to go. I cut out all my pattern pieces and interfacing pieces, marked all my dots and notches, and fused the interfacing to the collar, cuffs and front facing pieces. All seam allowances are 5/8″ unless otherwise stated.
We are going to start work on the front bodice piece first by sewing your “tucks” on the right side of fabric. Just a scant 1/16″ is all you need. Follow the guide line carefully. Make your bust darts too.
I made a command decision to make my shoulder seams a “flat-felled” seam so the raw edges did not show. Sew the shoulder seams with right sides together and finish them the way you like.
I also like to sew my sleeves in flat instead of sewing the sleeve seam and then fitting the sleeve into the bodice. SO… I gathered my sleeves and eased them into the bodice matching dots and notches. Sew in place and finish how you like.
Time to sew the front facing to the front bodice. Finish the outside edge of the facing first with an overlock stitch or your choice of other type of finishing. Pin front facing to the bodice matching notches, dots and V neck line. Sew in place down the V neck portion. Baste the facing to the rest of the neck line 1/2 inch from the edge. When you attach the collar, it will cover the basting stitches. Clip into the V of the V neck wthout cutting through the stitching. Trim the corners. Turn right side out and understitch what you can of the facing to the seam allowance down the V neck.
Tack down the shoulder area of the facing to the bodice. On facings, I like to use StitchWichery, which is a product similar to fusible interfacing only it’s double sided fusible glue without the interfacing. Super cool stuff. I press it in between the facing and the bodice and it holds really well.
Time to make the collar! Press a 5/8″ over on the collar piece which you fused the interfacing to .With right sides together, sew the collar pieces to each other leaving the straight edge unsewn. Now I do this differently than the instructions. I prefer to pin my collar to the WRONG side first, sew it in place, turn it to the right side and top stitch the collar in place on the right side. I do this because I feel I have more control of how the stitching looks on the right side of the fabric. Top stitch around the edge of the collar once it’s in place.
Now sewing the side seams and sleeves seams are done all in one long stitch line, matching the notches and seams.
Sew gather stitches along the edge of each sleeve end where the cuff will attach. Make the cuffs by pressing the un-notched edge of each cuff over 3/8″ to the wrong side. Sew the cuff short ends together matching notches to make a circle. With right sides together, pull the sleeve through the cuff, match notches and seams. Gather sleeve ends to fit into the cuff. Sew in place. Turn cuff to right side and top stitch it down to hide the raw edges.
All that’s left to do is hem the shirt and put in grommets. I used a narrow double rolled hem. To do that it really helps if you first sew a 1/4″ stitch along the edge of the hem. This will help with pressing the 1/4″ over first and make it easier to sew it in place.
This shirt design is perfect for grommets, so I just had to give it a shot. They are super easy to put in. Dritz makes a great package of grommets with all the tools you need to be successful in tacking them in. I made my own lacing for the neck line and a belt with extra fabric I had left over. And WAAAAAAAH. LAAAAAAAAH. Another successful make. Even thought the first thing I thought when I looked in the mirror was… “ARRG. I’m A PIRATE!!”