You know how I like to go searching for new independent pattern companies to find nicely designed garments? Well, Fayma Patterns was one I came across that I wanted to dig deeper into. This is not your typical “see a pattern, purchase it and be done” companies. NO NO NO. Fayma is a computer generated pattern to fit who? ONLY YOU! Supposedly. If you choose to step into the realm of digging deep into your body shape, and having a pattern that is designed just for your body, then go forth and conquer with this company.
I chose this particular pattern because I LOVE tunics in the fall and winter months. I can wear them with anything from leggings to jeans to dressy slacks. I had purchased some awesome stretch cotton sateen from Mood Fabrics a couple years ago and it was time to use it. This is the perfect pattern to match that sateen.
Once I purchased the pattern I hit a brick wall! What? I have to measure my body from head to toe? AND photograph a front and side view in tights? O M G!! How in the world am I going to do that? Enter my dear sweet husband. “Honey? Will you help me for a moment?” Of course he said “Sure dear”. Little did he know I would take over about TWO HOURS of his time to get this done. Talk about intricate measurements! There were over 20 (closer to over 25) individual measurements needed to have this pattern drafted specifically for me. But I will say, no pattern adjustments should be needed after all this! I was exhausted after just the measurements to get the PDF pattern. THEN! O M G! Printing this pattern. FOREWARNING. You may need a half ream of paper because each individual patter piece is on its own PDF file!!!! Talk about a waste of paper!
OK. Two days later…. (seriously) I am ready to cut out the pattern on my beautiful sateen. ALSO! Cut a piece of bias from your fabric that is 1 inch wide by about 11 inches long or so. You’ll need it to finish the back neck line.
SEW….Here We GO!
All seam allowances are printed on the pattern pieces so be mindful of that if you ever question it. Most of the seams are 1cm. I used a very lightweight fusible interfacing on my neck facing, hem facings and cuffs.
Let’s begin by marking all the dots, notches and darts. Sew the darts and give ’em a good press.
Overlock the side pieces down the to last notch using an overlock stitch on each piece. Once the sides are overlocked, with right sides together, sew the front and back pieces together down the sides to the notch. Cut a notch into the side seam at the notch so you can lay the side seams open and give them a good press.
Take the two hem facings and press over 1cm on the long un-notched edges.
With right sides together, place the back hem facing on the back bodice matching notches and pin in place. Using a 1cm seam allowance, sew facing to the front bodice pivoting at the corners. Do the same thing to the front.
After you trim the corners, turn right side out and poke out those points with a point turner. Understitch the seam allowance to the facing. Give it a good press.
Now that both hem facings are sewn in place, time to do some top stitching to hold it down nicely. I did a double row of stitching on mine and tacked the sides for a little extra strength.
Looking back now, I probably would have done a different version of a neck facing for the back, but I actually followed the directions on this make just to see how they designed it. So…
With right sides together, place the front neck facing on the front bodice. Pin in place and sew, using a few extra stitches at the neck V for strength. Clip into the neck V starting a the neck line and going down TO the stitches, not THROUGH the stitches. Understitch the V part of the neck line best you can. Clip the curves and trim the seams. Turn to the right side and press. TIPS AND TRICKS: Use some Stitch Witchery to fuse the neck facing in place. I love Stitch Witchery. Google it.
Next they say to sew the shoulder seams. So, with right sides together, align the front and back shoulder seams at the notches. You should have 1cm left open to sew the back bias tape to. I think it would have been better to make a back neck facing instead, but… Finish your seams.
Remember that bias strip you cut out? Now it comes into play. Measure the length of the back neck line and cut the bias to match but add about 1/2 inch to each end so you can fold that over for a neat edge. Fold one long edge over 1/4″ and press. With right sides together, sew the bias in place using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Fold the short edges of the bias over so you don’t have a lot of raw edges.
Now fold the bias to the inside of the garment and sew in place using a nice stitch line since it will show on the right side of the fabric. This will hide the neckline seam allowance.
Sew the short ends of the cuffs together. Press a 1cm edge over on the un-notched edge.
Baste a double row of stitching along the edge of the sleeve armscye area. I noticed that when I placed my sleeve in I didn’t have to ease much and those two rows of basting just helps keep the fabric from stretching out too much. With right sides together, sew the sleeve seams and finish. Set the sleeves into the bodice matching notches and easing where needed. It fits pretty well without too much ease.
With right sides together, place the cuff onto the bottom of the sleeve and sew in place matching seams and notches.
Turn cuff and press seam towards cuff. Fold cuff to wrong side and pin in place so you can stitch in the ditch and catch the cuff while you do that.
Can you believe it? WHAAAAAAAAA. LAAAAAAAH! You’re done! Another great make for the fall and winter. Fayma, I must admit… I do like the fit for the most part, but there are a few things I would have changed to include the bust dart placement, neckline finish and it’s a bit boxy on me. But, it is cute! And it will get a lot of wear!